Classic western Bhutan

The descent into Paro follows a river valley between wooded ridges, one of the great arrivals in the world. Your guide and driver meet you at the aircraft steps and the hour to Thimphu passes along the Pa Chhu, past the confluence at Chuzom with its three chortens. Settle in, walk the evening streets and let the altitude introduce itself gently.

Stay: Thimphu Boutique House · placeholder name

Morning at the Buddha Dordenma, the great gilded figure that looks down the whole valley, then the National Memorial Chorten where elders circle in prayer from first light. The afternoon brings the textile museum, the papermaking workshop and, late in the day, Tashichho Dzong as the offices empty and the monks' courtyard fills with evening chanting. Long sleeves and trousers, no hats, and cameras rest inside the shrine rooms.

Stay: Thimphu Boutique House · placeholder name

The road climbs to Dochula at 3,100 m, where 108 chortens stand among prayer flags and, on a clear morning, the whole eastern Himalaya lines the horizon. From there the valley falls away through rhododendron and oak to the warm rice terraces of Punakha. A short walk through the fields of Sopsokha brings you to Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the Divine Madman.

Stay: Punakha River Lodge · placeholder name

Punakha Dzong sits at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu like a ship at anchor, its whitewashed walls rising from jacaranda. Cross the long suspension bridge, then climb through terraces to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten for a view the length of the valley. The afternoon is yours: a gentle raft on the Mo Chhu, or nothing at all beside the river.

Stay: Punakha River Lodge · placeholder name

Back over Dochula, pausing for butter tea at the pass, and down into the Paro valley by early afternoon. Rinpung Dzong, the fortress of the heap of jewels, holds the valley's best woodwork and a covered cantilever bridge over the river. Above it, the round watchtower of Ta Dzong houses the National Museum.

Stay: Paro Valley Lodge · placeholder name

Taktsang is a steady three hours up through blue pine and prayer flags, with a teahouse halfway for the view and the breath. The last stretch drops and rises again across a waterfall gorge before the monastery doors, where cameras stay outside and the silence does the talking. A traditional hot stone bath in the evening eases the legs.

Stay: Paro Valley Lodge · placeholder name

Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the two oldest temples in Bhutan, built in the seventh century, with orange trees fruiting in the courtyard in every season. Lunch in a farmhouse above the valley comes with red rice, ema datshi and a demonstration of the national sport, the archery field never far away. If the weather is clear, the road to Chele La at 3,988 m offers Jomolhari on the skyline.

Stay: Paro Valley Lodge · placeholder name

An early breakfast, a last look at the valley and the short drive to the airport. Your guide stays until the doors close behind you, as is the custom.